Valmontone: 80 years after WWII, it’s a fashion target
Everyone knows Italy is one of the world’s fashion capitals. It’s where fashion trends are set and sent around the world. One of the places where people flock to get great Italian clothes for cheap prices is a little town 30 miles (50 kilometers) southeast of Rome called
Valmontone. Once nearly destroyed in World War II, it is now home to one of Italy’s best outlet malls. Valmontone Outlet has some of Italy’s top brands at discount prices. Drop the kids at Magicland amusement park next door and shop in the outdoor mall. But there’s more to Valmontone than shopping. The Palazzo Doria Pamphilj has some of the best ceiling murals in Lazio. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria dell’Assunta next door looks like a miniature Sant’Agnone in Agone, the famous church hovering over Rome’s Piazza Navona.
Valmontone (pop. 15,000) isn’t a pretty town. The post-war rebuild doesn’t match surrounding towns untouched by Allied and Axis bombs. But it’s a great place to scratch a shopping itch without paying Rome prices. It also sits on a 1,000-foot hill so you can also get a respite from Rome heat.
Things to do
1 • Valmontone Outlet. Opened in 2003, this outlet mall has more than 180 brand name stores that mark down clothes from 30-70 percent all year. During the twice yearly saldi (sales) in January and July, add another 25 percent. When we went Wednesday, I bought some U.S. Polo shorts, usually €70, for €39. When we visited, it wasn’t very crowded even though it is the most visited outlet mall in Italy. All the usual Italian brands are there. United Colors of Benetton, Gaudi, Sandro Ferrone. It also features entertainment. Italian singer Anna Tatangelo will perform next Thursday. Tourists can acquire and activate a Tourist Card for further discounts by downloading the Valmontone Outlet App from Google Play.
Info: Via della Pace, 39-06-959-9491,
https://www.valmontoneoutlet.com
10 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday-Wednesday, 10 a.m-midnight Thursday.
Shuttle buses leave Valmontone Station for the outlet at 11:15 a.m., 2 p.m and 4:45 p.m.
Buses return to the station at 2:15 p.m., 5 p.m. and 7:15 p.m.
2 • Doria Pamphilj Palace. This is one of the best examples of Roman Baroque architecture. On the grounds of a former castle, it was built between 1652-1670.
When the Pamphilj family took over Valmontone in 1651, they wanted to build an “ideal city.” That included the palace and the Church of Santa Maria dell’Assunta next door. Today the palace has 356 rooms. The most beautiful are on the first floor (In Italy, that’s one floor above the ground floor).
The ceilings have beautiful 17th century frescoes of angels on horse-drawn chariots, scenes from the sea and others from heaven. Unfortunately, the palace was heavily bombed during World War II and it is still under renovation, particularly this year of the Rome Jubilee. Construction materials are piled up in the back of the palace and many rooms are empty.
Info: Piazza Umberto Pilozzi, 39-331-235-8282,
https://www.palazzodoriapamphiljvalmontone.it
9 a.m.-1 p.m., 4-8 p.m., free. Ask in the office to let you in the upstairs.
3 • Collegiate Church of Santa Maria dell’Assunta. The 17th century church, next door to the Doria Pamphilj Palace, is a close replica to the Church of Sant’Agnone in Agone. If you’ve been to Rome’s Piazza Navona, you’ll notice the same two twin bell towers on Santa Maria dell’Assunta.
Big, beautiful paintings from the 17th and 18th century adorn the inside under a tall dome. Some were renovated for the Rome Jubilee in 2000. Six massive candles sit above the altar. The church also features a small, beautiful bronze sculpture of Jesus holding a cross. A large pipe organ sits in the back balcony.
Valmontone helped lead to liberation of Rome
Valmontone was considered a strategic piece during the liberation of Rome during World War II as it was on the Rome-Naples railway line. In May 1944, after storming the beaches of Anzio 30 miles to the south, Allied troops bombed Valmontone thinking German troops had garrisoned there.
“Operation Buffalo” flushed out the Germans and Rome was liberated on June 4. World War II ended three months later. Unfortunately, the bombing destroyed 80 percent of Valmontone’s ancient buildings, including its fortified gates and a monastery on Colle Sant’Angelo. Valmontone rebuilt and was awarded the Silver Medal for Military Valor.
Where is it:
30 miles (50 kilometers) southeast of Rome.
How to get there: Frequent buses leave Rome’s Tiburtina Station for Valmontone.
The direct 35-minute ride is €6-€9.
For more information:
Pro Loco di Valmontone, Palazzo Doria, Piazza Umberto Pilozzi, 39-06-959-1040,
8 a.m.-8 p.m.
Where to eat:
La Locanda del Tasciotto, Via Porta Romana 22, 39-06-310-56985, https://www.locandatasciotto.com, 12:30 p.m.-3 p.m., 7:30-11 p.m. Saturday-Thursday, 7:30-11 p.m. Friday. Beautiful location on Piazza Giusto De Conti.
Innovative pastas from €12-€14 and meat dishes from €15-€20.
Try the cacio e pepe with lime and shrimp. Dinner for two, with wine, was €50.
