Terracina: Ancient city by the sea
Ancient ruins are littered around Southern Italy like Mediterranean pine trees but few places have them so close together as in the seaside town of Terracina (pop. 45,000). Rome? Yes.
But also Terracina, an important city ever since the Appian Way was built through it in 312 B.C. Noble families built mansions here during the Renaissance.
In the 17th century, popes lured people in from the countryside with tax exemptions. It was badly damaged during World War II but you won’t know it if you visit now. It’s 35 miles (55 kilometers) south of Rome and has one of the most underrated beaches in Lazio. It’s long, broad, clean and without a rock in sight.
And if you like seafood with a view, boy, do we have a place for you.
Things to do
1 • Roman ruins. Walk uphill on the long, narrow Via Annunziata and you’ll run into Antico Complesso Monumentale del Foro Emiliano.
You’ll first come across the Arco Quadrifronte, a 20-foot arch that was the entrance of Terracina’s forum. Originally it had four arches with a square base. It was replaced during medieval times with the Palazzo Venditti.
Continue uphill to Piazza Municipio. There you’ll come across the Appian Way, also known to pilgrims as Via Francigena. Besides the remains of the Temple of Jupiter is the well-preserved remains of a Roman theater, Capitoline Hill and the San Cesareo Cathedral from the 5th and 6th century A.D.
Venture over to nearby Piazza Domitilla for a great panoramic view of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
2 • Beach. Walk downhill from Centro Storico and you will eventually come to Terracina’s underrated beach. It stretches 4-5 kilometers and is covered in smooth, golden sand. The water is gentle and safe.
The boardwalk is lined with good beach facilities and food options. It’s 24 miles east of Sabaudia which gets most of the day traffic during the summer.
3 • Temple of Jupiter Anxur. From the beach, look up on Mt. Sant’Angelo and you’ll see a huge complex lined with porticoes. This is the remains of the ancient temple dedicated to Jupiter in 2nd century-1st century B.C. After the Roman Empire fell, the two temples were mostly destroyed but the porticoes remain.
It was later turned into a church and 9th century frescoes can still be seen. It’s three kilometers from Centro Storico, about 30-45 minutes on a steep, paved road.
Sorsi & Morsi a sweet Terracina tradition
We picked a good day to visit Terracina. When we entered Piazza Municipio, it was filled with people taking part in Terracina’s new tradition, Sorsi & Morsi (Sips & Bites).
The festival began last year in celebration of Terracina’s prized strawberry which was transplanted from France many years ago.
A long line wrapped through the piazza waiting to buy tickets which gave them a choice of a red and green menu from 14 participating restaurants. Also served is wine from the local Cantina Sant’Andrea winery.
Foods include meat and fish, one-pot meals, appetizers and desserts. Those not hungry can enjoy live music, shows and children’s workshops. The tickets are €25 and the festival has no set annual date. It has already had numerous editions since its 2025 debut. Inquire below for the next festival.
Where is it:
35 miles (55 kilometers) south of Rome.
How to get there: Regular trains leave from Rome’s Termini station to Monte San Biagio.
The €8.30 trip takes 70 minutes. At Monte San Biagio switch to a Cotral bus to Terracina. The 15-minute ride is €1.30.
For more information:
IAT Informazione, Piazza Municipio 1, 39-07-737-07495,
Where to eat:
Le Terrazze, Piazza Aldo Moro, 39-392-578-3972,
info@leterrazeterracina.it,
8:15 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Wednesday-Monday.
Opened only two years ago, it has a big covered veranda overlooking the sea.
Specializes in seafood pasta and fish all starting at €20. Excellent lunch for two with wine was €62.
