Nazzano: A river and comfy boats run through it
We’ve written a lot about Lazio’s beautiful lakes but have mostly passed over the greatest body of water in the region. The mighty Tiber runs from Emilia-Romagna to the Tyrrhenian Sea in Lazio. It goes right by the village of Nazzano which has turned it into a major recreation site.
Next to the town is the Riserva Naturale Regionale Nazzano Tevere Farva. It’s a nature reserve covering 300 hectares (740 acres) with the Tiber snaking through it. The reserve has boats that carry passengers up and down the Tiber for a relaxing day.
The town is small with few amenities other than a dormant castle and a great view of the Lazio countryside. When we visited Wednesday, not one restaurant was open for lunch. But this is August. You won’t go hungry the rest of the year.
Things to do
1 • Riserva Naturale Regionale Nazzano Tevere Farfa. That’s a long name for what is the Nazzano Nature Reserve. Opened in 1979, the reservecan be entered from the east end of Nazzano but the main entrances are on the north and south ends.
We entered from town and drove down a long gravel road. We parked at a small restaurant and followed the path along the river for about 30 minutes. The reserve is a magnet for bird watchers.
The shaded path, as flat as a pool table, has a couple of covered huts – one elevated – where you can see area birds float along the river and sit on the marshes. Identification signs show drawings of black-winged stilts, red shanks and green sandpipers among others.
When we visited we saw two great crested grebes sitting on marsh and two swans floating by. The reserve is crowded in spring but on Wednesday we saw no more than 10 other people.
At the south end of the reserve is the reserve office which has information about the reserve and boat trips.
2 • River Path. Behind the reserve office are flat-bottom boats that seat 52 people and ply up and down the river. It takes two routes. A shorter trip lasting an hour goes from the landing stage at Nazzano to Torrita Tiberina. A longer route goes to the landing stage below Sant’Oreste. A guide will point out geological and archaeological oddities, including fossilized remains from the Pliocene era. You also get good views of Nazzano perched on a hill with its 12th century castle dominating the landscape.
Info: Short route €7 and long route €14. They leave frequently every
Saturday and Sunday. For information and reservation, call Federico
Bronzi at 39-347-610-4110 or 39-347-936-4110.
Email: ilsentierodelfiume@yahoo.it.
3 • Centro Storico. Nazzano has only 1,425 people but its centro storico is quite striking from below. The Savelli Castle dominates the landscape with its high walls and two towers.
It’s in the middle of the town and surrounded by homes and buildings of the same brown brick material. The castle is a mess inside and permanently closed but it’s good to admire upon the entrance of the city. Surrounding the castle is a series of cobblestone alleys.
They go by the River Museum which displays geological and ecosystem information. Walk down pretty Via Francesco Durantino and go in the back entrance of Punto di Riferimento, a good bar to meet locals. Have a glass of wine at an outdoor table.
Tiber River the historical backbone
of Ancient Rome
The Tiber is the third longest river in Italy but its most historical. Rome was founded in 753 B.C. on the banks of the Tiber. Stretching 400 kilometers (250 miles) from Emilia-Romagna to Ostia on the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Tiber helped make the Roman Empire the most powerful civilization in history.
It served as a major trade route for Ancient Rome and a huge naval base at Ostia. Back then the river divided the lands between the Etruscans to the west, the Sabines to the east and the Latins to the south. Benito Mussolini was born in Romagna and hanged the boundary to put the Tiber’s many springs in his region. While the Tiber is no longer clean enough to swim in Rome, it is very clean in Nazzano.
Where is it:
50 kilometers (30 miles) north of Rome.
How to get there: It’s best to drive as it’s 45 minutes by car and nearly double that by public transport. However, trains leave Rome’s Tiburtina station and change at Poggio Mirteto. After a 20-minute layover, buses go to Nazzano. Cost is €5-€11.
For more information:
Comune di Nazzano, info@comune.nazzano.rm.it.
Reserve’s information 39-07-653-32795, info@teverefarfa.it.
Where to eat:
Ecoturismo Tevere Farfa, Via della Vecchia fornace 2, 39-07-653-31757, www.pianopiano.info, 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
A farm stay located on the walking path of the reserve, it has been serving its specialty homemade fettuccine for 30 years. Everything is handmade and open only on weekends. A fixed menu of first and second plates, dessert, wine and water is €30 per person. Grab a seat in the covered outdoor seating area in the back.
