Pomezia: Mussolini creation still a bomba on the beach
They teach schoolchildren about Benito Mussolini in Italian schools. They don’t gloss over his selling out the Jews and disastrous alliance with Adolf Hitler. But they also teach about some of his achievements.
Yes, he got the trains to run on time. More importantly, he turned the swamp area in southern Lazio into a series of beach towns. One of them is Pomezia, 30 kilometers (18 miles) south of Rome where he filled with workers from Central and Northern Italy to transform the land.
Pomezia was heavily bombed in World War II but it has survived to house 60,000 people and today its Torvaianica neighborhood sports one of the nicest beach fronts in Italy. It is where you must try Lazio’s best bomba, one of Italy’s most famous pastries.
Things to do
1 • Torvaianica Pomezia’s beach community stretches eight kilometers (five miles) along the Tyrrhenian Sea and is where Trojan war hero
Aeneas once landed. Today a big tiled square sits over the sea where
musicians play old Italian love songs and benches provide a quiet
respite to read or watch the waves. The beach is a long stretch of gold sand with nary a rock in sight. Condo buildings, none more than
three stories, line the shore. On a long stone boardwalk, people walk
dogs, couples stroll carriages, joggers run.
At the ramshackle Maredamare cafe, Lycra-covered cyclists stop for snacks, coffee and
drinks. Enjoy fine dining at Talea where white tablecloths and a wind
shelter gives you great views of the sea. Torvaianica’s main drag is
lined with cafes with outdoor seating where the locals and tourists
enjoy the sun.
2 • Museo Civico Archeologico Lavinium. Aeneas founded the town of Lavinium in the area that is now Pomezia. Located four miles from the sea, Lavinium was deemed a religious center from the many sanctuaries found by archaeologists.
The museum, on the outskirts of Pomezia as you enter from the north, was built in 2005 and consists of five rooms. They include artifacts from the area, mostly from the 5th-3rd century B.C. One room is filled with terracotta statues that were gifts locals gave Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom and whom Aeneas saved from a fire.
The museum also includes the famous Cup of Dioscari from the 6th century B.C.
Info: Via Pratica di Mare 4, 39-06-919-84744,
https://www.museolavinium.it, museo.lavinium@comune.pomezia.rm.it On Oct. 6 it closed for renovation and is hopefully going to reopen in January.
3 • Castel Romano Designer Outlet. If you like Italian clothes, you must stop at arguably Lazio’s best and biggest outlet mall. Located on the outskirts of Pomezia, Castel Romano has more than 155 stores at discount prices. They include all the big Italian names such as Armani, Benetton, Dolce & Gabbana and Ferragamo as well as American brands such as Calvin Klein and Levi’s. Come during Italy’s twice annual month-long sales in January and July for even more discounts.
Info: Via del Ponte di Piscina Cupa 64, 39-06-505-0050,
https://www.mcarthurglen.com/it/outlets/it/designer-outlet-castel-romano,
10 a.m.-8 p.m. You can take public transportation by Cotral train from
Rome’s Laurentina Station.
Lazio’s best Bomba may be found in Torvaianica
If you ever go to one of Italy’s pasticcerias for breakfast, you will inevitably find shelves filled with fat, round pastries covered with sugar and filling dripping out. That is called the bomba. It’s the Italian word for “bomb” and appropriately named. It’s a giant donut filled with either chocolate, vanilla cream or fruit preserves. Later, they feel like a bomb in your stomach.
They are a must try anytime in Italy and the historic pasticceria of Martinoia may have the best bombas in Lazio. Martinoia began in 1960 right off Torvaianica’s beach and still has the nostalgic, homey interior. Hanging from the ceiling is a big model airplane they used in 1996 to fly over Torvaianica and drop bombas as a marketing ploy. They hardly need it. Martinoia is always busy. The bomba remains a steal there at €1.50 each.
Info: Viale Spagna 13/15, 39-06-915-7192,
6:30 a.m.-1 p.m., 4
p.m.-12:30 a.m. Tuesday-Friday, 6:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Where is it:
30 kilometers (18 miles) south of Rome.
How to get there: Regular Cotral buses leave Rome’s Laurentina
station. The 30-minute ride is €3-€5.
For more information:
Where to eat:
Trattoria al Teatro, Via Virgilio 70, 39-06-9522-4682,
www.trattoriaalteatro
It opened in January next to an abandoned theater that is under reconstruction. Semi-elegant with white tablecloths and glass partitioned to protect from the wind, it caters to locals rather than tourists.
No English menus which feature the regular Roman specialties prepared to perfection. Try the saltimbocca romana. Lunch for two, with wine, was €52.50.
