Rocca Priora: The best view in Lazio? Maybe here
Lazio is speckled with hill towns, villages built during the violent Middle Ages when they felt safe atop hills behind big walls. Consequently, many of these small towns have spectacular views. But in the 16 months we’ve done TraveLazio, we don’t think we’ve seen a better view than from atop Rocca Priora.
The town of 12,000 people 15 miles southeast of Rome has a panoramic view of the Lazio countryside. It was also where the Roman aristocracy ordered their ice during Ancient Rome. Today its most famous church is named after snow. The sleepy town is surrounded by green fields and perfect for hiking, horseback riding and picnics.
Things to do
1• Palazzo Savelli. More beautiful palaces exist in Italy. In fact, you can’t even enter it unless you want to visit the comune offices inside. It’s not even that old. Palazzo Savelli was built in the 15th century and rebuilt in 1880. It does resemble a castle with the two turrets sticking up into the sky. The piazza features a beautiful war memorial statue of an angel next to a soldier. On the base are 26 names of Rocca Priora natives who died in World War I and 17 who died in World War II.
But go for the view. The palace stands on Piazza Zanardelli, the highest point in town. The piazza is one giant panoramic lookout point. On a clear day you can see from Rome to Palestrina and various walled hill towns in between. Even in bad weather, you can marvel at the vast hills covered in trees and patches of green fields that look like golf fairways.
2 • Chiesa Madonna della Neve. Meaning Madonna of the Snow, this 16th century church is in honor of Rocca Priora’s past as Lazio’s ice center. The church stands on the same site of a small chapel where a hermit lived during Ancient Rome and locals gathered to pray to the Virgin Mary for heavy snowfall.
Locals would pack the snow in large pits and cover them with hay. It would then be carted to Rome and sold to wealthy Romans. To this day they celebrate with a procession on the first Sunday in August. The church sign on the door has its name covered in snow.
Info: Via degli Olmi 4, 7:30 a.m.-noon, 3:30-7 p.m
3 • Picnic. Italians aren’t heavily into picnics. We do it as I’ve introduced Marina to the relaxing activity to fully appreciate Italy’s beautiful countryside and great food. But Rocca Priora seems to be the picnic capital of Lazio.
Along Via Tuscolana just outside of town there are two sites that welcome picnickers. Picnic al Quercione has a clearing lined with picnic tables under canvas roofs. A big BBQ is available for self-cooking. The owner is glad to help and has available a restaurant, a bar, panini and porchetta.
Down the road is Tex Wild West, an American West theme where people eat on tables half covered by teepees. The ground features an old wagon and carriage that’s just missing the horse. Look for the sign with a cowboy, an Indian and two American flags.
Info: Picnic al Quercione, Via Tuscolana Kilometer 31, 39-351-991-9698, Saturday-Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Monday 9 a.m.-6 p.m.
Tex Wild West, Via Monte Fiore 1, 39-349-669-7163,
Saturday-Sunday 11 a.m.-midnight.
Horseback riding, hiking circuit
If you have a big picnic, what better way to work it off than going hiking or mountain biking starting at the picnic ground? Vulcano Laziale, the area where Rocca Priora resides, has a 28-kilometer ring that goes all the way to Rocca di Papa in the southwest. It has an elevation gain of 700 meters and the trails are well maintained, wide and clean. This is a big horseback riding area. Rocca Priora has a riding school called Centro Ippico on Via Trilussa 52 (39-06-944-36355).
Info: Castelli Romani e Monti Prenestini, Via della Pineta 117, 39-06-940-74255,
https://it.wikiloc.com/percorsi-mountain-bike/ippovia-del-vulcano-laziale-tracciato-completo-8382721,
Where is it:
15 miles southeast of Rome.
How to get there: Trains leave hourly from Rome’s Termini station for Frascati.
The 30-minute journey is €2-5. Transfer to bus for Rocca Priora. Takes 15 minutes and is €1-2.
Where to eat:
Ristorante Sora Rosa, Via dei Castelli Romani, 39-06-94-70-799/338-423-1993,
7-11:30 p.m., Tuesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m., 7-11 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
This place has been grilling all kinds of steaks for more than 50 years in a big dining hall with two tree trunks holding up the ceiling. I had a luscious, huge entrecote Argentina for 20 euros. It also has a full range of classic Roman pasta dishes and a page of pinsas, the oblong pizzas that originated in Ancient Rome.
