TraveLazio: our favorite destinations in Lazio
At month’s end, we’ll have completed our third year producing TraveLazio, the only website dedicated to day trips from Rome. Of the 67 destinations we’ve visited, it’s hard to come up with a favorite. However, we reviewed our wonderful three years roaming Rome’s region and came up with our five favorites. Next time you’re in Rome and tired of the crowds, refer to this list and visit one of them.
Or two. You won’t be disappointed. (The list was so hard to compile, we put them in alphabetical order.)
Calcata
Lazio’s village in the sky. It’s a mishmash of stone buildings on a cliff 150 meters high 30 miles north of Rome. It is a mecca for artists and freedom seekers who ditched the ratrace in Rome and settled into a community with spectacular views of the Treja Valley, if they don’t fall off the cliff.
Calcata was founded 3,000 years ago but fell into disrepair so much in the 1920s, Benito Mussolini condemned it. It was resurrected in the ‘60s and is now the happy home for a population of 70. No cars are allowed. Peruse all the art stores. Talk to the artists. Visit the 14th century Chiesa del Santissimo Nome di Gesu.
Maccarese
Our go-to beach spot in summer is Fregene, 20 miles west of Rome near Fiumicino Airport. But right next door, the town of Maccarese has a whole new allure. It’s beachfront is two kilometers long and lined with comfy beach clubs where you can rent lounge chairs for as little as €6. Go into the old neighborhood, a quaint square where you can tour by appointment the 18th century Castello San Giorgio or just hang out in its beautiful grounds. For you music fans, Maccarese has the world’s largest saxophone museum.
A room near the train station has 660 saxophones, many of which are famous, such as the one used in the film The Talented Mr. Ripley. If you’re staying in a B&B in Rome, stop at one of the numerous roadside fruit and vegetable stands. Maccarese is home to Italy’s biggest farm and the produce is cheap and excellent.
Subiaco
Gina Lollobrigida’s hometown 40 miles east of Rome is attractive to more than her fans. The warren of twisty alleys and potted plants is a wonderful way to while away a day. Subiaco’s main attraction is the huge Abbey Santo Scolastica, a working religious center dating back to the 6th century. Before entering and seeing the remarkable artwork Inside, stand at the entrance and gaze down at the Lazio countryside. Remember Emperor Nero? He’s from Anzio on the coast but he had a second villa one mile east of Subiaco.
He dammed the Aniene River to form three artificial lakes and remains of his villa can still be seen. For you hikers, trails lead all over Lazio. Signs direct you to hikes ranging from 40 minutes to the Lago di Santa Benedetto to 9 ½ hours to Monte Autore. Dine in style at Ristorante Origini e Vino which has only four items on its primi piatti (first plate) menu and four on its secondo piatti (second plate). So you know the food is fresh.
Trevignano Romano
Lago Bracciano has attracted day trippers for centuries but on the less-accessible north side, Trevignano Romano offers a different, community-oriented atmosphere. A mile-long promenade lines the lake. Stroll along and pass the open-air public market where you can shop for everything from jewelry to jam, all homemade. Or rent a kayak and sailboat and refresh on the smooth water. The town of 5,800 is lively on weekends at the public market but go on a weekday and check out the Orsini Fortress.
There is not much left of the castle built in 1200 but the views of the Lazio countryside are spectacular. There is also an Etruscan-Roman museum with artifacts dating back to 8th century B.C. Hungry? Be sure to hit Casina Bianca, right across the street from the lake and run by the same family for 90 years.
Tuscania
No, it’s not in Tuscany. In fact, it’s closer to Rome. It’s 50 miles north of Rome and 70 miles south of the Tuscan border. It’s the perfect stopover between Rome and Florence or a great day trip from either city. Its old town features a vista overlooking the 8th century Church of St. Peter’s and the 13th century Castello del Rivellino.
Go to the Torre del Lavello, the tower that can be seen all over town, and take in the view of the two landmarks. Rest on some of the many sarcophaguses around town. For you shoppers, Tuscania is one of ceramic centers in Italy. Stores offer everything from ceramic salad sets to table settings. The National Archaeological Museum of Tuscania features a funeral complex from the 4th-3rd century B.C. For a table with a view, dine at La Torre di Lavello with outdoor tables overlooking St. Peter’s and the castle.