San Polo dei Cavalieri:
A medieval village as cute as the puppies raised there

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San Polo dei Cavalieri: (pop. 2,750) dates back to the 11th century.
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San Polo dei Cavalieri: Orsini Castle.

San Polo dei Cavalieri is a village of about 2,750 people 42 kilometers (25 miles) northeast of Rome, not far from the luxurious Hadrian’s Villa. Few villages we’ve seen are as compact as this one.  Our listed three Things to Do are right next to each other like friendly neighbors. A medieval castle? Check. A historic church? Right across a stone walkway. A museum? Walk down a few steps. It’s all right there.

The town goes back to the 11th century when it belonged to the Abbey of San Paolo Fuori le Mura. The Orsini family took it over in 1429 and improved the fortifications. It later became a center for academia and hosted the likes of famed Italian astronomer Galileo Galilei.

If the windy, narrow alleys of its historical district and the spectacular views of the Lazio countryside don’t put a smile on your face, check out the company that raises Golden Retriever and English Cocker Spaniel puppies for adoption.

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San Polo dei Cavalieri: Piazza Guglielmo Marconi.
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San Polo dei Cavalieri: the houses in the city centre.
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San Polo dei Cavalieri: view of the Lazio countryside.
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San Polo dei Cavalieri: daily life is slow in San Polo.
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San Polo dei Cavalieri: Orsini Castle from the town park.

Things to do

1 • Orsini Castle. The castle was built in the 11th century and was passed onto to the Orsini family in 1429 to improve its fortifications. The Orsinis were a powerful family that produced five popes and 34 cardinals.

The Orsinis turned it into a residence for the Lords of Tagliacozzo, the Orsini Cavaliers, thus giving the town its current name. The Borghese family used it as a summer residence until the 1860s.

It underwent restorations in the 1950s and 1990s and today is only open for private guided tours on weekends. It consists of three floors, all with art ranging from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance to Italian unification.

Info: Via San Lucia, 39-351-776-1195, 

https://www.castellosanpolo.it.

10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m., 4:30-7:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Only available through private tours. Reserve in advance.

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San Polo dei Cavalieri: the entrance to Orsini Castle. Entrance is only by organized tour.

2 • Federico Cesi Naturalistic/Prehistoric Museum of the Lucretili Mountains. The little museum down a short flight of stairs next to the church features fossils and other artifacts found in the nearby Parco Naturale Regional dei Monti Lucretili.

Info: Via dei Cavalieri 31, 39-07-744-16032,

https://parcolucretili.it/san-polo-dei-cavalieri/

info@parcolucretili.it, 


8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.

San Polo dei Cavalieri: the map of Lucretili mountains.

3 • Chiesa di San Nicola di Bari. Don’t be put off by the dull yellow exterior of the church just across the walkway from the castle. Chiesa di San Nicola di Bari dates to the 14th century and was enlarged by the Borghese family in 1586. The center of the church features the spectacular “Glory of St. Nicholas,” featuring a sky covered with saints and angels with St. Nicholas and God in the background.

A 15th century painting of St. Nicholas is behind the altar. The bell tower dates to the 14th century and was rebuilt in 1683 after it was destroyed by lightning.

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San Polo dei Cavalieri: Chiesa di San Nicola di Bari.

A puppy farm for takeaways

Looking for a unique souvenir from Italy that will be at your side for many years to come? How about a puppy? The Allevamento Valle della Mela is a farm in San Polo dei Cavalieri that breeds and raises Golden Retrievers. It gives tours for people interested in taking home a puppy or merely want to chill out with puppies cute enough for a calendar.

They offer three tours: Group Guided Tour where you discover life on the farm and get to know the dogs; Exclusive Guided Tour, a private and personalized tour ideal for families and couples; Picnic or Snack with the Golden Retrievers where you eat in the countryside in the company of the dogs. Denise Palmieri started it 10 years ago when she fell in love with her first Golden Retriever, Anthony. Since then, she and her husband, Fabio Vitolo, have sent dogs to visitors in Venezuela, Austria, Poland, Spain, France, Greece, Russian, England and UAE. Cost of a Golden Retriever puppy is €2,500 plus tax and it includes the Italian International Kennel Club (ENCI) pedigree, microchip and registration in the canine registry, vaccination and deworming, health record, transfer agreement with veterinarian guarantee and personalized puppy kit with training tips.

They also raise English Cocker Spaniels which are €1,800. The couple personally take the puppies to their destinations. Asked what they like most about Golden Retrievers, which inspire the company motto, “Life is Golden,” Denise emailed in Italian, “Goldens represent the purest and brightest part of the human soul. They are empathetic, loyal, generous, and know how to make every day special. Owning a Golden means learning calm, gratitude, and the joy of the little things.”

Info: Via Valle Pantana, 39-333-860-4876

https://allevamentovalledellamela.it,
info@allevamentovalledellamela.it

9 a.m.-1 p.m., 3-6 p.m.

Monday-Saturday.

Where is it:

42 kilometers (25 miles) northeast of Rome.

How to get there: numerous buses leave daily from Rome’s Tiburtina Ti-bus station.

The journey takes two hours with a change in Tivoli. Some routes have an extra stop at Rome’s Ribibbia station.

For more information:

Accoglienza Turistica,
Via Umberto 1, 38, 39-07-74-416-032,

https://www.comune.sanpolodeicavalieri.rm.it/homepage.html
9 a.m.-noon, 3:30-5:30 p.m.Tuesday,
Thursday, 9 a.m.-noon Monday, Wednesday, Friday.

Where to eat:

L’Agrifoglio, Via Santa Liberata 14, 39-07-74-416-384, 10 a.m.-3 p.m., 6 p.m.-midnight Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-noon Saturday-Sunday.

Sporting a spectacular view of the Lazio countryside from its spacious terrace, L’Agrifoglio is as authentic as it gets. Opened in 1989, its menu is on a single page, all in Italian, and features local feel-good favorites. Pasta dishes start at €8 and meats start at €11. Try the traditional arrosticini: roast mutton on sticks.

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San Polo dei Cavalieri: L’Agrifoglio opened in 1989.