

Maccarese: Italy’s biggest farm also a beach escape

We’ve been going to the beach town of Fregene every summer for 10 years. Every trip, we pass the little ville of Maccarese. We see the soccer stadium. We pass countless fields of fruits and vegetables. Finally this week, we stopped and explored.
Turns out, the little principality of the city of Fiumicino, where Rome’s airport is, has its own characteristics and fame. Maccarese is home to Italy’s biggest farm, first established by Benito Mussolini in 1932. It also has a long beach front lined with beach bars, beach clubs and bike paths.
Explore Maccarese’s castle then have a fine meal in the plethora of restaurants around the beautiful castle grounds. What’s more, Maccarese is only a half hour train ride from Rome.

Things to do
1 • Lido di Maccarese. Located just north of Fregene, Maccarese’s beach goes for about two kilometers. Choose any one of a long string of beach clubs such as La Playa, La Rambla or La Lucciola. Park in the lots across the street and pay a nominal fee for a lettino (beach chair) and umbrella.
For example, La Lucciola charges €6 for a lettino (€9 on weekends) and €9 for an umbrella. After a day at the beach, they all have bars and lounge chairs.
La Rambla has big cushioned couches on the beach and tables with reasonably priced €5 beer and €6 wine. Weekend nights are packed with young people.
2 • Castello San Giorgio. Located in a beautiful borgo, the castle is smaller than others in Lazio. It’s only three stories but the grounds are beautiful. A gravel path winds through manicured shrubs, lush lawns, Mediterranean pine trees and fountains. It’s dotted with big potted ferns and palm trees. The castle dates back to 1756 when it was owned by the Anguillaras, a noble Norman family. It is now owned by the Benetton Group which rents it out for private and corporate events and weddings. Tours are by appointment only.
Info: Viale Maria 3, 39-06-667-2336, 39-388-405-0555,
3 • Museo del Saxofono. Attilio Berni, a native of Fiumicino, has been a jazz musician for 50 years. He began collecting saxophones for 35 years and opened his museum near the Maccarese-Fregene train station in 2019.
Today it houses more than 660 saxophones in two rooms. Many of them are quite famous. He has saxes, as well as a clarinet from Benny Goodman, from such artists as Sonny Rollins and Tex Beneke. He has saxophones used in the films “The Gangs of New York” and “The Talented Mr. Ripley.” He has Ross Gorman’s sax from “Jazz Singer.” One clarinet from France is from 1861. The museum has indoor and outdoor stages where they regularly play concerts at 9:30 p.m.
His next ones are Saturday and July 19.
Info: Via dei Molini, 39-06-697-862, 39-320-251-4087,
4-7 p.m., €10.
The garden of Italy
Driving through Maccarese you will pass massive fields of almonds and corn and cherries and beans and barley and every green vegetable imaginable. Every few miles you’ll see homey, street side fruit and vegetable stands where you get the most natural, freshest produce at reasonable prices. Little Maccarese (pop. 5,100) is home to the largest farm in Italy. In the late 1920s, a failed reclamation project by financial investors made the land useless. But in 1932, Italian leader Benito Mussolini reclaimed the land and redeveloped it. He shipped in workers from Mantua and Veneto who cultivated the fields, planted vineyards and managed the dairy cows.
Soon, Maccarese became the showcase of Italian agriculture. In 1998, the Benetton brothers bought the company which owned 17 square miles and Castello del San Giorgio for 94 billion lire (€48.5 million). Today the farmland covers 3,000 hectares (7,400 acres), with 2,420 semi-irrigated crops. More than 2,700 cattle produce 4,200 liters of milk a day. The Italian food website Arte Cibo called Maccarese an “agricultural paradise.”
Where is it:
20 miles (37 kilometers) west of Rome.
How to get there:
Trains leave every 15 minutes from Rome’s Termini train station.
Half hour journey is €3.
For more information:
Ass. Pro-Loco Fregene,
Viale della Pineto 100, Fregene, 39-06-665-60596,
https://www.prolocofregene.com,
9:30-11:30 a.m. Friday, Tuesday, 5-7 p.m.
Thursday, 10 a.m.- noon Saturday.
Where to eat:
Maccare’, Via dei Pastori 24, 39-06-667-8286,
https://www.facebook.com/maccaremaccare/?_rdr, 7.30 -11 p.m. Maccare’, which means “Maccarese” in Roman dialect, is part of a long string of restaurants in the borgo near the castle.
Maccare’ has excellent Roman-style pizzas from €12-€15.
My amatriciana pizza was superb.
A pizza, salad, side dish, water and two glasses of wine were €44.